Motor Service 8/1/2001

The right vehicle lift can make a technician's job easier, faster and safer -- and make a shop more profitable. The opposite, however, is also true if you purchase a lift that doesn't meet your shop's needs. As you weigh your decision on which lift is right for you and your business, take a close look at the various designs, product styles and service repair options offered by certified lift manufacturers.

When you think about it, the issue is not whether or not you can get that job done without a lift, but how much extra time would it take? A lift allows you to do more jobs in less time. Of course, safety is also an important consideration.

Honest assessment

Before you can make an intelligent lift-purchasing decision, you need to assess your needs and formulate a plan, for today and the future. The plan should honestly address both your shop's strengths and weaknesses.

First, take a look at the type of work you're doing and how much shop floor space is available. Then, evaluate the types of lifts available. Be sure to choose a manufacturer that has a successful track record in product quality, service and support. Since maximized uptime directly impacts profitability, it's important to have reliable lifts that can be installed and serviced easily.

Although the variety of lifts available may seem overwhleming, you owe it to yourself to take the time to learn as much about them as possible so you can make an informed decision about which design and manufacturer is best for your business. With more information under your belt, you should be able to select just the right lift for each type of service you do. Keep in mind that unless your shop does one kind of service all day, you'll probably need more than one type. Here are the various styles:

YOU NEED A LIFT.

Motor Service; 8/1/2000

We help you make that big purchasing decision

You're not sure which one you're going to buy yet but you are sure of one thing. Everyone you talk to says his lift is the best! After awhile, it's hard to know what the truth is even when it's staring you right in the face. Sometimes you even end up being more confused than when you started. This article is about cutting through all the noise and seeing the nuts and bolts of the issue: Which design is most versatile? Which company is going to be there to support you after the money is spent? Which lift is going to provide the best long-term investment?

There are many ways to sift through all the available products and determine what is the best lift for the type of business you have. Many manufacturers make good lifts. The best of those manufacturers will share common features. Ask your potential supplier several key questions about each of the following items, and it will become obvious who has substance and who has the smoke and mirrors.

For starters, let's narrow our discussion down to the twin-post above-ground lift, the most popular lift bought today. While other designs might be a better fit for your exact type of shop, the two-post above-ground represents about three quarters of today's lift market. By demanding the following features and asking the following tough questions, the decision about which lift to buy should become easier.

There are many ways to build a two-post lift. Each component may vary a great deal from one manufacturer to another. Let's look at a few of the major components more carefully.

Columns

There are three or four ways to build a column. The first and oldest way uses a very heavy "C" channel. This rigid design is very similar in construction to a forklift. While most above-ground lifts started out using this gauge, most companies have switched to lighter materials in order to lower costs in a price-competitive market. The next common design is a folded sheet metal column. The thickness of the sheet metal and the number bends in each column determine the column's strength. While this design works well enough, when relatively thin steel is used, it flexes a lot under a heavy load. The less flexing a lift does, the more forgiving it will he when your technicians are pushing and pulling against a transmission or a stubborn ball joint. Other designs include "I" beam columns, and a few lifts use a folded sheet metal box with square tubing welded inside for added strength. Of the four designs, the "C" channel is the most rugged, and, if the fork lift industry is any indicator, it's the one likely to b e around the longest.

Carriages

Carriages are the parts that move up and down inside the column. Welded from thick plates or folded sheet metal, the carriage design has two points worth asking about: What guides the carriages within' the column, and how is the arm held in place?

Take note of the safety system. Is the safety in the column or part of the carriage? In most cases where the safeties are part of the column, they don't function below two or three feet. To be safe under a lift while it's at or near the ground (while servicing brakes or struts, for example), be sure to ask if the safeties are active at all heights.

Carriage Guides

As the lift goes up, carriage guides go between the steel of the carriage and the steel of the column to keep them from wearing each other out. A bearing, a roller, or a plastic slide are used in the different designs. The bearing is a sealed, hardened, tight-fitting part, which requires no maintenance. The bearings fit snugly and the carriage cannot tilt in the column. The best bearings are packed with grease and double sealed to keep out the debris found in most automotive shops.

The next best thing to a bearing is a roller. While the roller is stronger than a plastic slide and fits tighter to eliminate slop, it usually incorporates some type of sacrificial material to bear the brunt of the wear. A roller in a heavy-duty application like a lift will wear out the bronze bushing on which it rolls. Left unserviced, the problem can result in a chain or cable failure. Any lift with a pulley or a roller can experience this kind of wear and most will need replacement during their service life.

Finally, there are plastic slides. These slides are the least expensive way to build the carriage but are the most demanding in terms of maintenance. The plastic material used in these slides, UHMW, is very hard and can withstand a great deal of pressure. But since these slides do not actually turn as the carriage rises, they require more play in the carriage to prevent binding. This play may make the carriage tilt unevenly as it rises. Also, they require regular attention. While slide block lifts are always cheaper than bearing lifts, most manufacturers require that the columns be degreased, cleaned, and re-lubricated monthly. In reality, most shop owners are too busy to do this regularly and the slides wear out prematurely. If this happens, be prepared to pay a hefty service bill since the lift will need to be completely tom down to remove the carriages and replace the sliders. Be aware that some companies call their sliders "bearings." Ask what they mean to be sure.

Arms

For long-term non-drooping performance, look for a lift with arms that are supported from underneath. The strongest carriage designs use a steel plate on the top and the bottom that sandwiches the lifting arm. Alternatively, some companies support their lifting arms by drilling a hole through two plates and pinning the arm to the carriage. While this technique does work and saves money, it places all of the vehicle's weight against the pin. Over time, these pins and the holes they go through become worn. As a result of these egg-shaped holes, the arms drag on the floor, and you'll eventually need to replace the arms, pins, and carriages.

Chains, Cables or Nothing

Ask what keeps the lift level. What pushes (or pulls) the car up? The majority of lifts use a piston to do the heavy lifting. But what else do they use? Are they lifting with chains or cables? Are they maintaining level by these devices? With pulleys?

The answers to these questions will tell you a lot about how high your maintenance costs will be later on. Lifting and leveling are two different things. Ask how big the piston is (some companies use only one piston, but most use two). Some lift companies use a piston as small as 1-1/8 in., while others have pistons 3-5/8 in diameter. The greater the piston's diameter, the easier the work will be and the longer the pump/seals/hoses will last.

Chain, as opposed to cable, is likely to last much longer on a lift. Even when cables are used for leveling, they still bear a heavy load when a safety engages or if the vehicle is loaded off-center. Ask to look at an installation manual and you will likely see a monthly maintenance requirement. Cables in lifts are vulnerable to road salt, rust, and grit. Like clutch cables, they eventually run out of adjustment and need replacement. The bigger issue however, is the cost of downtime. A set of cables may only cost you $300-$400, but what will it cost if one breaks while the car is still on the lift? What do you think the chances are that it will break when the lift is empty? And, finally, what if it takes two days to air-freight the parts? How much repair work will you lose while waiting?

Clearly, when it comes to lifts, the lower the price, the more likely you are to experience higher maintenance expenses. Chains are rarely going to need to be replaced but cables probably will. If you buy a lift with cables, be committed to taking good care of it.

There are a few other design questions to ask. Does the lift use hoses or stainless steel line? Are truck adapters standard or optional? How many sets come with each lift?

What kind of company am I dealing with?

After considering those major items, the next key to a smart lift purchase revolves around knowing who your manufacturer is.

The first and best indicator of who your supplier is and how likely it is to stand behind its product later is its commitment to safety. The newest ANSI standard for lift safety (A.N.S.I/ALCTV-98) was developed by ETL, an OSHA-recognized testing laboratory. The program, developed by participating members of the Automotive Lift Institute (ALI), requires that lift manufacturers that wish to label their products as "certified" must subject their lifts to rigorous testing and must put in place stringent quality control procedures. The ALI is responsible for such recent advances in product safety as arm restraints, chain break safeties and hydraulic blow-out valves. Look for the "ETL certified" label.

Another way to judge your manufacturer's commitment to your success is the warranty. More than any other issue, on this one YOU HAVE TO DO YOUR HOMEWORK! For example, a company says it has a five-year warranty, but does that cover parts, labor, travel, and shipping charges? Labor alone can cost $500.

For some companies, warranty work is actually a profit center. A lift manufacturer may be willing to offer a low purchase price to get you to buy, but once you become a customer, you're locked into that company for parts. Unfortunately, sometimes those parts cost more than they should. Keep in mind that a service call to fix a leaky piston, worn rollers, or broken cables can easily run $1000.

Be a smart consumer and call the factory for warranty details because reps, tool salesmen, and distributors can sometimes be confused on this issue. Ask for a copy of the warranty in writing. In most cases, the warranty only covers defects in workmanship. Even then, it may be up to you to prove that a part was defective by shipping it cross-country at your expense. Worse still, your lift will be out of service while you wait for the replacement.

One way to be sure you're doing business with the right company is to ask how warranty parts are sent out. Find a company that ships parts freight prepaid. Find a company that will pay travel for a service call, or ship a swap-out cylinder so you don't have to take a liftoff-line. Remember, a cheap tool always costs more than a good one.

In buying your next lift ask the important questions. Be sure to buy the best value instead of the best price.

Heavy "C"-channel is the traditional material of lift columns.

A sealed, maintenance-free carriage guide bearing.

Carriage sliders are made of super-hard UHMW plastic.

Will those arms droop?

Some lifts use heavy chain.

A leveling cable.

 

 

Environmental responsibility impacts inground lift repair and replacement.

By: Phillips, Tom
Public Works 3/1/1995

The automobile industry is confronted by strict EPA requirements on in-ground lift repair and maintenance. Industry members are advised to understand factors such as the proper disposal of removed in-ground lifts, detection of fluid leakage from in-ground lifts, repair of faulty lifts, replacement of lifts and EPA regulations. They should also communicate with lift manufacturers and environmental consulting firms.

Environmentalism started decades ago, when excessive amounts of litter began showing up on our nation's highways and in our parks, rivers, and streams. The automotive industry in the 1970s was affected by the movement as well, when a number of environmental measures were enacted by the federal government, two of which called for phasing out leaded gasolines and instituted mandatory requirements for catalytic convertors on automobiles and light trucks.

Today, the automotive business is faced with another environmental concern. This time, the concern is about the environmental safety and operation of in-ground lifts, as well as other shop equipment.

The inground automotive lift was introduced to U.S. shops in the mid-1920s and after many years of productive service, many shops are finding it necessary to replace their inground lifts. Even though replacement is a straightforward process, some elements, namely EPA regulations, result in sleepless nights for shop managers.

There is no need for panic over the process of inground lift replacement, nor over the EPA regulations that must be considered in the process; it is simply necessary to understand all the factors involved. Those factors include knowing EPA regulations, how to recognize fluid leakage from an inground lift, how to properly test the lift for leaks, how to repair a faulty lift, how to replace an inground lift, and how to properly dispose of a removed inground lift.

Facts About the EPA Regulations

In adopting the federal regulations (40 CFR 280) governing underground storage tanks (USTs), the EPA excluded several classes of tanks from regulation. Those exclusions cover equipment and machinery that contains regulated substances for operational purposes, such as hydraulic lift tanks. The exclusions also cover UST systems with a capacity of less than 110 gallons.

The EPA reasoned that hydraulic lift tanks pose a low level of risk compared to other types of storage tanks because they contain small amounts of non-hazardous regulated substances solely for operational purposes. The EPA further stated that the loss of fluid would so affect the operation of an inground lift that the operator would obviously recognize its faulty operation.

Even though the EPA has excluded inground lift tanks from regulation, shop owners are required to report oil spills, even those that may have been caused by leakage from inground lifts.

Inground lifts, when properly filled with hydraulic oil, operate smoothly. However, when the system is low on oil, the lift will operate erratically, rising smoothly at first, then suddenly increasing the speed of rise as it nears its full height. When bringing down a lift that is low on oil, the operator can see it descend quickly at first, then as it nears the floor, it will slow considerably. In addition, if the lift has lost hydraulic fluid, the operator will probably notice the lift begin to stop short of its full stroke. As more fluid is lost, the height the lift will rise decreases as more fluid leaks.

Once operators notice their inground lifts operating in this manner, they should assume there is a fluid leak as well as the possibility of fluid leakage into the surrounding soil. After checking the oil level and determining the lift is low on oil, or if oil has been added to the system at any time after the initial installation, the operator can be positive the lift is leaking.

It is important at this point to note that since 1974, inground lifts complying with American National Standard (ANSI) B-153.1 have been supplied with low oil control devices.

Extending Lift Life

Once it is determined there is a leak, the operator should have a hydrostatic test conducted by a qualified professional. This is the point where operators can be 100 percent positive there is a leak in the system. Hydrostatic testing is done by introducing 175 to 200 psi pressure into the system and gauging the pressure for approximately one hour. If the pressure remains constant, plus or minus 5 psi, there is generally no leak in the system. If the hydrostatic testing indicates there may be a leak, a qualified professional should visually check the piping on the wall controls and seal and gland assembly to determine oil leakage in these areas. If there are no visible signs of a leak in these areas, chances are the leak is underground.

Once the location of the leak has been determined, any contaminated soil in the area should be removed and the leak repaired. The shop owner should make sure the lift system remains in good operational status and free from future leakage and underground corrosion.

One option is to install a sacrificial magnesium anode to the lift system. This requires a 12-in. hole cut in the concrete near the lift or the lift piping. The anode is then attached to the lift and buried four ft beneath the surface. Underground electrolytic currents, a major cause of pitting of the piping system, will then concentrate on the anode instead of the lift components and piping, thereby extending the life of the lift. Pitting and corrosion are two factors that accelerate inground lift oil leakage.

Another option to be considered is to replace the hydraulic fluid with a biodegradable fluid. This requires the existing oil in the lift be fully drained then replaced with biodegradable fluid. The combination of installing the sacrificial magnesium anode and replacing the oil with a biodegradable fluid provides extended protection against underground corrosion and pitting of the lift components and piping and the subsequent leakage of contaminative fluid into the surrounding soil.

If the lift owner chooses not to make the repairs, the lift and the contaminated soil should be removed. Removing the oil, the lift components, and the contaminated soil should only be done by qualified professionals thoroughly familiar with disposal procedures as outlined by EPA guidelines and state and local requirements.

The Lift Removal Process

Lift removal may vary from location to location but it will generally include the following steps, usually in the order listed:

* Remove oil valves and oil fittings from the wall;

* Evacuate oil from the system, including tank, jack assembly, and piping;

* Remove lift superstructures;

* Sawcut the floor around the lift and piping so that smooth edges for a clean appearance remain after the concrete is removed;

* Remove the concrete around the lift and piping;

* Remove the contaminated soil from around the lift and piping;

* Remove the piping, jack, and tank assembly.

All underground lift components that have been removed should always be disposed of by qualified personnel in accordance with the governing regulations. It is imperative to have a properly documented disposal manifest when disposing of the old hydraulic oil and contaminated soil. The shop manager should maintain complete records on the disposal of the oil, the contaminated soil, and the lift components. Once the lift components have been removed, any contaminated soil should be removed and disposed of in accordance with local, state, and federal regulations.

If contaminates have entered the soil from sources other than the lift, disposal may have to be handled as hazardous waste. Again, proper documentation is very important. Soil testing should be conducted by a qualified person to ensure all contaminated soil has been removed from the hole.

Typically, local environmental firms will take soil samples from all sides of the hole, packaging them in individual containers, properly marking them as to their exact location, and then packing them on ice to assure any possible contaminates do not evaporate before their arrival at a testing lab. If lab tests indicate the soil is clean, the lift bay is ready to be put back into operation.

If the tests indicate the soil is still contaminated, additional soil removal may be necessary. Each soil sample originally sent to the lab should be clearly marked as to the exact location of extraction so it will be known exactly where additional soil removal, if any, is needed.

When the lift has been removed and soil samples indicate the area is clean, the bay can go back into operation, complete with an automotive lift. The shop manager may install a new state-of-the-art inground lift with underground corrosion control features, either single-post or twin-post models, or surface mounted lifts, either two- or four-post models.

Shop managers may want to check into the option of getting a factory applied fiberglass coating if they choose to install an inground lift. This coating helps increase the longevity of the lift.

This is a very straightforward process. Again, it is important to note that many states have adopted the federal EPA's position relating to inground lifts. Shop managers should always check with local and state officials to be sure they comply with all local and state regulations as well.

As with any industry concerned with environmental issues, there are a number of sources to help with the process of inground lift repair or removal, including environmental consulting firms and lift manufacturers. With their help, shop managers can be environmentally responsible for this decade and future decades as well.

COPYRIGHT 1995 Public Works Journal Corporation